天然植物染工作坊講義Natural Dyeing Workshop Handout
一、天然植物染的邏輯1. The Logic of Natural Dyeing
同樣是「上色」，色素固定在纖維上的方式並不只一種。以下四種邏輯，涵蓋了工作坊會接觸到的染料與顏料。 "Coloring" isn't just one process — there's more than one way pigment ends up fixed on fiber. The four logics below cover the dyes and pigments used in this workshop.
藍染Indigo
不是表面上漆，是「先溶解滲入纖維內部，接觸空氣再氧化固化」，把色素顆粒物理性地卡在纖維裡層Dye dissolves, soaks into the fiber, then re-oxidizes in air and locks inside — not a surface coating
不需媒染，也不需下地處理No mordant or undercoat needed
直接染料Direct Dyes
色素分子自己抓住纖維表面（氫鍵、凡得瓦力），像貼紙輕輕貼上去Pigment clings to fiber on its own — like a sticker lightly pressed on
媒染非必要，只用於變色加深Mordant optional, only for deeper color
薑黃・紅花Turmeric · Safflower間接染料Indirect (Mordant) Dyes
色素透過蛋白質／單寧＋金屬鍵結，在纖維表層形成一層固色膜，這是大部分天然染料的做法Pigment + protein/tannin + metal bond together on the fiber — how most natural dyes work
媒染是必要步驟Mordant required
五倍子・橡實・茶葉Gallnut · Acorn · Tea leaves顏料Pigments
色料顆粒不會和纖維產生化學鍵結，單純靠外加的「膠」黏在表面Pigment forms no bond with fiber — held on by an added binder
膠老化、脫落，顏色就跟著剝落Color flakes off as the binder wears out
水彩・墨汁・顏料印染Watercolor · Sumi ink · Pigment printing補充 間接染料怎麼固色：色素・媒染・下地介質Detail — How indirect dyes fix color: pigment · mordant · undercoat medium
下地介質先幫纖維鋪出結合位，色素與媒染劑的金屬離子再和這層介質產生螯合，三者缺一，顏色都不會牢固。 The undercoat first gives the fiber binding sites; pigment and the metal ion from the mordant then chelate onto that layer. Remove any one of the three and the color won't hold.
補充 纖維的兩種類型Detail — Two types of fiber
動物纖維（絲・毛）Animal fiber (silk, wool)
本身即為蛋白質構成，天生就有結合位，較容易染色Protein-based by nature, with built-in binding sites — dyes readily
植物纖維（棉・麻）Plant fiber (cotton, linen)
纖維素構成，沒有蛋白質結合位 → 需先做下地處理補上結合位Cellulose-based, no protein binding sites → needs an undercoat treatment first
補充 下地處理的兩種類型（植物纖維）Detail — Two types of undercoat treatment (for plant fiber)
豆漿＝黏膠膜Soy milk = adhesive film
鋪一層無色蛋白質膜，本身不帶色，純粹提供結合位讓後面色素、金屬黏上去Coats the fiber with a colorless protein film that simply provides binding sites for pigment and metal to attach to later
單寧下地＝會變硬的漆Tannin undercoat = self-hardening lacquer
鋪一層本身帶淺褐色的單寧漆，接觸空氣會自行氧化變硬、越放越牢固，同時兼任結合位與底色Coats the fiber with a naturally tan-colored tannin layer that oxidizes and hardens on exposure to air, growing more durable over time, doubling as both binding site and base color
補充 常用的媒染Detail — Common mordants
鋁Alum
明礬或醋酸鋁，色澤明亮、偏原色Alum or aluminum acetate — bright, close to the dye's own hue
鐵Iron
偏深、偏灰黑Darker, grey to black tones
銅Copper
藍熊販售的處理銅，偏綠、偏茶，沉穩Treated copper mordant — muted green to brown tones
二、我目前使用的染色方式2. My Current Dyeing Method
下地處理Undercoat treatment
分兩種類型：豆漿膜 / 單寧漆Two types: soy milk film / tannin coat
製作染液Prepare dye bath
找植物、煮出色素，讓色素離開植物本體Source the plant, simmer to release pigment from the plant matter
染色Dyeing
布料浸入染液，低溫浸染顯色Immerse fabric in the dye bath, low-temperature soak to develop color
媒染Mordanting
浸入媒染劑，金屬離子固色顯色Soak in mordant solution, metal ions fix and develop the color
水洗Rinsing
大量清水沖洗，去除多餘藥劑Rinse thoroughly with clean water to remove excess chemicals
重複Repeat
依想要的濃淡，重複染色與媒染Repeat dyeing and mordanting to build up the desired depth of color